185 Bar & Restaurant

A CBD Gem

Just a stone's throw from the corner of Kings Street and St. George's Terrace lies one of Perth's few boutique hotels, The Chifley, with its very own '185 Bar & Restaurant'. Classy yet comfortable, stylish yet simple, everything about 185 is totally geared for a no-fuss, high quality experience.

Leaving 185, I knew this review would write itself. It emanates class, in its clean modern lines, cool colours and elegant furnishings. The venue offers perfect people-watching views of Cloisters Square flowing back into a long, slick bar with banquette seating and then further back into the dining room overlooking the bustling kitchen.

Food and Beverage Manager Alister Pereira is a gem; his warm hospitality, knowledge and attention to detail is inspiring. He loves his job and over the last five years has watched 185 grow into an establishment that effortlessly harvests repeat interstate clientele and of course, loyal locals.

For a hotel - and a boutique one at that - the menu is well-priced, especially as everything is top quality. In fact, 185's menu is beautifully crafted by Head Chef Katrina Steadall; it's not extensive but guaranteed you'll find it hard to make a selection.

For entrees, Alister suggested the 185 Tasting Plate with two signature cocktails: Strawberry Night Fever and Caipirinha 185. Starting with cocktails, as opposed to wine or beer, added even more flavours; I highly recommend it.

It's got to be one of Perth 's top tasting plates, exuding style and broad culinary knowledge. Alister explained, "We wanted to take tapas-like tasting plates to the next level, with a bit more flair and flavour". It delivered on that! Definitely a knife and fork job and frankly, ideal for impressing someone over a drink or two.

First, I took a chilled prawn and dipped it in a shooter of Bloody Mary - just enough kick to set off the sweet cool prawn and very refreshing, especially with my lime cocktail. Next: baked duck shanks with Indian kasundi. The duck was crunchy; the chutney-like kasundi was bitter, sweet, salty and sour simultaneously! It was spicy but more of a flavoured spice rather than hot; very sultry.

It didn't end there... Boccancini (baby mozzarella) pieces were lightly crumbed and shallow fried, then served warm with a honey dipping sauce. If you don't usually mix your sweet and savoury, then give it a shot, that's what the tasting plate is all about. Finally, quail breasts with luscious pistachio nut pesto. The pesto, something new for me, set off the quail and it'll be my next culinary attempt at home; I want more!

The mains are works of art; Katrina has compiled a small 'boutique' style menu to ensure everything leaving the kitchen is top-notch. Katrina describes her food as Modern Australian and she's geared the menu to cater for 185's typical clientele: Melbourne and Sydney-based guests, a largely 35-years-plus demographic, lunchtime suits and Perth 's weekend leisure and dinner guests.

Katrina and Alister chose two mains for us; the Kangaroo Fillet with apple rosti, leek fondue and shiraz jus and the Northwest Snapper on a preserved lemon risotto cake, asparagus and buerre blanc. Both were a contrast of colours, flavours and textures. It's a very challenging job sometimes.

The crunchiness of the baked rosti differed to the soft leek and tender, yet robust meat. The apple's sweetness lightened up the kangaroo's 'gamey' flavour. The creamy leek worked well with the syrupy shiraz jus, with the occasional juniper berry offering a peppery explosion. Alister poured us the Bellibone 2003 Cabernet Merlot from Margaret River - a divine drop for kangaroo and a must for your cellar. This meal put a smile on my face.

The fresh snapper was lightly seasoned, then quickly grilled and finally baked off in an oven, creating a unique crispy coating. The fennel hit me instantly! It's slowly braised in verjuice (almost white wine but yet to ferment), giving it a striking, tangy yet sweet flavour that sung with the saffron buerre blanc (white butter sauce). Fresh asparagus spears and a glass of the Hesperos 2005 Sauvignon Blanc just topped it all off. A great summer dinner.

As they say at The Chifley: "185 - it's not just a number and neither are you." So if you're in the CBD and want to try something different, somewhere classy that won't break the bank, then drop in for a cocktail, a light bite or a plush meal. They've just launched their new cocktail and summer dining menus; visit www.185theterrace.com for more info. Bon appetite.

By Shenade Unicomb