Stylish low-key quality
The Chimney is setting a new standard for Northbridge- its simple yet refined; low-key yet high-quality sense of style is the new benchmark for Perth’s cultural district.
Located on the outskirts of Northbridge across from Cinema Paradiso, The Chimney won't disappoint. Manager Royce has high energy and passion. He said The Chimney – which only opened in April 2010 – provides, "a real dining experience for Perth, with professional, friendly and knowledgeable service – something that is not always the norm in Perth."
The Chimney is cute, with its intimate dining room, small bar and 'clean-lines-modern' yet comfortable decor. What grabs me though is the alfresco dining alley – it's right out of Melbourne, lined with olive and fig trees; great in summer or winter. It feels homely but simultaneously classy – and better yet, you don't have to do the dishes.
Part of the 'real dining experience' that Royce and his team offer is giving guests that wee bit extra value for money. Not only does each dish use top quality produce and ingredients, you also get these items complimentary: fresh bread on arrival with olives, dukkah, olive oil and balsamic, plus a port with your dessert. Royce believes it's these small gestures that help build a relationship with diners. Royce is also a big believer in service; he chose to employ full-time staff, knowing that they would be focused and committed, versus casuals that would cost him less. I think that is great.
The kitchen is headed for success with David Walker at the helm, a well-travelled, English-born chef that loves Perth. He offers a menu that he describes as Modern Australian, which to David, simply skims off the top of the world’s cuisines and uses fresh, top quality produce to re-create it. The menu is eclectic; there is African, Asian, Mediterranean and Italian influences – but they all have in common is great value (hurrah!) and great taste. A glance at the menu reveals a superb range of dishes that’d appeal to anyone.
The Chimney has a great breakfast menu and is open daily. There's also a 'Something quick and light menu' (11:30am-5:30pm) that offers a great selection of dishes, at great prices. The 'Main menu' (11:30am-3pm; 6-10:30pm) is exciting. No, really. You could take anyone here and they'd find it hard to choose; chef David is a genius. There's a great range of entrees; pasta and rice; meat, poultry and game; fish; sides – and of course desserts.
For entree I loved the 'Homemade harissa-spiced chicken sausage with Tunisian zingy cous cous, prune and coriander chutney and riata. I loved the harder-than-normal texture of the Tunisian cous cous, and the fresh taste of cumin, and coriander leaves and root. The sausage had a mousse-like texture, with no skin – the chicken meat is rolled, poached then roasted off to avoid it.
The 'Scallop and salted cod tart with cherry tomato and saffron dressing' was lovely - light, tasty, flavoursome. A rustic tart, well-presented with a gelatinous, buttery and smooth fishy flavour, and big char grilled scallop pushed into the centre. I normally wouldn't order it – but very glad I tried it.
As a palate cleanser between courses – something that Royce encourages as part of the Chimney experience – we tried a petite glass of French ginger fruit brandy. Royce offers guests something different with the 'G.E. Massenez' series of French fruit brandys – amazing, more-ish, unique, and a great addition to the usual entree-main-dessert-bottle of wine dining experience. They're great with dessert too. Royce has the whole range, from peach and strawberry to blackcurrant and apple. C'est magnifique!
Mains didn't disappoint and there were many menu items I wanted to try. I opted first for the 'Mediterranean lamb shank with shiraz, tomatoes and basil, roast garlic mash and parmigiana regiano crisps'. I dipped my (huge) crispy cheese crisps into the thick, hearty sauce and I accidentally hit one of the shanks – and it fell apart! Nothing like a good shank, eh? The 2008 Capel Vale Regional Series Shiraz (Mount Barker, WA) did justice to the meat.
I was also partial to the 'Crispy confit duck leg with pancetta, slow-cooked red cabbage and candied hazelnuts'. I actually thought the nuts were chick peas – there were that many, I didn’t think the chef would scatter them so frivolously. So glad he did; their honey-dripped coating worked wonders on the salty pancetta and bitter-sweet cabbage. Other mains on offer include pork belly, scotch fillet of beef, lamb rump, veal, chicken kiev – and there's a great kids menu too.
I enjoyed the smoothest pannacotta ever with a chunky berry compote, and chef David kept in the seeds, love that! I also had the lemon tart – my goodness; brilliant. Interestingly, Royce gave us a chilled glass of Peach liqueur from the French brandy range, which brought out the best in each dessert.
Run out of room; all I can say is, I implore you to try The Chimney – and the rest will sort itself out.
