There's a new Italian joint on the block
The block is an advantageous perch on Melville Parade in Como, beside the gleaming Swan River and just clear of the CBD. The joint is Ribaudo's Ristorante and Function Centre, a classy, classic eatery dishing up traditional Italian cuisine with candor and authenticity.
Large and spacious, with windows which let in lots of sunshine and afford peeking views of the river, Ribaudo's plush carpets and sleek white tablecloths offset a casual open alfresco dining area and an outdoor, wood fired pizza oven. The restaurant is a relative newcomer, launching a little over six months ago, yet it has culinary genealogy on its side. Owner Michael Ribaudo descends from the pioneers of Italian food in WA. His grandfather - often known as Papa Ribaudo - established the original Sorrento Restaurant on William Street in 1951, then opened Sorrento Restaurant on James Street. The Ribaudo family later decided to sell the restaurant, not long after Papa sadly passed away in 1982. Michael's father Joe is also very well known, mainly through his showbiz career as one of "The Reno Bros". The legends themselves can still be found performing at Ribaudo's from time to time.
Suss out these fine Italian credentials with the quintessential 'Antipasto Misto' - tangy grilled cacciatore, prosciutto slivers and truly tender marinated octopus. The 'Salmon Carpaccio', edged with sesame and coconut, sat under a sun-blonde saffron aioli. Black olives soaked in a sweet home-made marinade and succulent cherry tomatoes topped it all off. The tarty-tang was balanced by smooth and creamy mushroom arancini balls that oozed melted bocconcini.
The 'Calamari Alla Griglia' is a tower of grilled baby squid on soft baked eggplant and ricotta dollops, pungent with basil pesto and herbs from their own garden. With Italian, less is more and this is fluently demonstrated in the simplicity of the 'Spaghetti Marinara'. The blend of mussels, prawns and squid in white wine, garlic and Napolitana sauce was gorgeous and unencumbered, allowing the buttery seafood and fresh parsley to glow on the palette.
The 'Agnello' is a grand winter's day meal which strikes dazzling chords with a glass of Cabernet Merlot. The lamb tenderloins were as juicy as the asparagus was crisp. Certainly a rich meal, with pancetta smidgeons strung through cannellini beans and dolled up with red wine jus. However, the 'Terzetto Di Mare' rules the menu. A seafood trio of plump seared scallops, tiger prawns and soft Tasmanian salmon arrive with salsa verde, asparagus and rosemary garlic potatoes to create a tarantella of flavours.
For dessert, try the Ribaudo's 'Semi Freddo di Limoncello E Lampone'. The limoncello and raspberry parfait is like biting into chunks of light, sweet air. Genuine, house-made semi freddo is an exquisite experience and even more so with this lively blend of flavours. For an inspiring summation, try their signature 'Affogato alla Michele'. The owner has certainly played spent time mastering this creation, cleverly playing with textures by plunging crunchy vanilla nougat into a glass of silky vanilla ice cream soaked in espresso.
The atmosphere, its proximity to the CBD, superb set menu options and the unassuming, tasteful wine list makes Ribaudo's ideal for corporate functions. The venue specialises in wedding celebrations and can cater for up to 200 people. This retro Italian venue with modern touches seems to suggest a festive Friday work lunch as much as a great big family shindig. Ribaudo’s speaks of customs, traditions and sophistication. Have 'Osso Bucco' or home-made pasta, expect warmth, great old arias and classy entertainment if you're organised or just strike a lucky night.
By Kim Kirkman
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