Authentic, understated, diverse
Malaysia is a "punch bowl" diversity of cultures, its flavours influenced by neighbouring countries dating back from the 16th century. It has it all, from sweet and spicy Thai, aromatic India and the subtlety of China's provinces. Malaysia is the place to visit for your next culinary experience.
If that seems a bit far away, then a visit to Takaza Restaurant is the next best thing. A chef myself, I was trained by Malaysian Master chef Cheong Lieu. I love Malaysian food and was honoured to write about Takaza for Menu. I gained a real appreciation for this place. A true dedicated Halal restaurant with no alcohol in sight, Takaza is a refreshing experience, with clarity in mind and the togetherness of sharing that food offers.
It's hard to imagine, as I absorb the atmosphere, that I'm on William Street in Northbridge. Takaza's interior is surrounded by thatch roof booths and decor of eclectic colours representing Malaysia's diversity. It reminds me of a 'warung kampung' (country shop cafe) style of eatery.
Outside on the street, you almost transcend to little Asia with local students and workers alike buzzing around, going about their business, seeking good value, home-cooked meals. Takaza's owner and head chef Aziz aims to please his regulars with honest-to-goodness affordable and tasty lunch and dinners.
Preparation for dinner service at Takaza is almost like my grandparents house in Bandung: every family member has a task to do, before serving the meal. Aziz won’t have it any other way - family and sharing food with good company seems to be at the forefront of this restaurant. His motto speaks for itself, "Think good thoughts, speak good words, eat good foods and do good work", is felt through his mannerism and his establishment.
Kedah Malay style of cuisine really takes me back home to soul food cooked to perfection. I arrived just after a heavy lunch service and saw the sate (or ‘satay’ as you may know it) cart, cleaned out like mums left over cake bowl. Fortunately Aziz kept some marinated for me to taste, and it would be worth the drive from anywhere. His nonya style marinade of fresh lemongrass, coriander seed, sugar and tamarind, covering the grilled tender skewered chicken thighs is simply magic. It was accompanied by fresh peanut sauce, lontong rice and sliced cucumbers to refresh the pallet. It is simply Perth’s best experience of Malay sate. Aziz's sate stands proud as Takaza signature dish.
The chefs insisted on us trying all their favourites like the murtabak, an Indian chicken-filled thin pancake traditionally cooked with chicken render. The pastry has to be so thin that you can see straight through, before carefully placing it on a film of chicken oil on a grill and filling it with chicken meat, curry powder and egg. Achieving this in such a busy service without bursting the pastry is an art in itself and for under $9, it's a bargain!
The other Indian influenced dish was my friend's favourite and a popular dish with westerners- the freshly made Roti Canai (flat bread) with sweet curry leaf dahl. The roti was soft and easy to tear and designed for you to shovel it into the aromatic and delicious yellow split puree. But my favourite in the Indian genre was the Malay chicken curry with Biriyani rice. This dish excites all my senses and leaves me with a humbling sensation. The chicken Maryland was stewed in a rempah (paste) of lemongrass, fresh galangal, cumin and turmeric, as well as other aromats and served with colourful basmati Biriyani rice. Aziz informed me that there’s no coconut milk in the curry, staying true to Kedah style of Malay food and true to value for money for under $12.
Food prices in WA are at its peak, with ginger fetching $23kg at some grocers. It almost makes sense to lay defeated and join the market by resorting to bottled sambal (chilli) and rempah (paste). Takaza still refuses to do so and it’s that attention to authenticity that I rarely find in an Australian ethnic restaurant. Takaza presents a familiar, great value-for-money menu that has been enjoyed for centuries. My own Takaza restaurant experience left me with a karma of happiness to my mind, body and soul.
By Chef Bonny Sulistyo
How to be feature Cafe
To find out how to be the featured cafe please us.
