The Mussel Bar

Waterfront Epic

Perched on Fremantle's Fishing Boat Harbour, The Mussel Bar offers that fine-dining experience you're looking for without the usual pretenses. Known for its panoramic views that don't cease at sunset, intimate setting and world-class cuisine, it's one of Perth's epic waterfront restaurants.

Each year millions of people come to Fremantle (Perth's port city) for its café culture, rich maritime history and natural scenery. Meandering along the boardwalk, I came upon The Mussel Bar with its aqua-green tinted glass uniquely angled towards gleaming Freo waters and it looked as if it could sail away into open water at any moment. Stepping inside, the warm timber finishings, white linen and sparkling glass and silverware filled me with expectation.

The Mussel Bar is owned by James Clements, captain of Collingwood Football club; Sean McManus of the Fremantle Dockers and local businessmen Lyn Jeffries and Mark Dobson (Mark's also an ex-East Fremantle player). Since opening in 2001, The Mussel Bar has become a beacon for tourists and locals with its seamless blend of fine and casual dining.

Enjoy its menu in the plush, elegant interior or feel free to sip a Sunday afternoon drink on the deck making a mess of a big bowl of juicy mussels, without having to dress up. The stunning function room (weddings, parties, anything) is always busy too, and why wouldn't it be, with three sides being floor-to-ceiling windows and a private balcony looking out onto the harbour? A venue where most brides arrive by boat.

Full steam ahead to the food... The menu is simple, succinct, inviting and yes, it's predominantly seafood but there's also venison, lamb, beef, chicken and a few vegetarian dishes. The format is fairly usual: bread, tasting plate, oysters, entrees, mains, The Mussel Bar (various types of mussels), mains, sides, salads and of course, desserts. A quick glance down the menu and it all looks pretty schmick; definitely a cut above. I noticed there weren't a great deal of wines available by the glass but the caliber of the wine list made up for that.

The entrees range from $19-$25. My friend Ness (a fellow foodie from the Greek island of Lefkada ) and I were presented with three entrees by Head Chef Glen Staszewski, previously of The Red Herring. First up: Salt and Pepper Squid, with Asian coleslaw and sticky lime dressing.

The squid pieces were quickly deep-fried and as hoped (and expected at one of Perth 's premier seafood venues), they melted in my mouth and weren't chewy at all. The delicately sliced salad of green beans, tomato and bean shoots was a crispy contrast to the squid's texture. With its sweet, refreshing flavours the sticky lime dressing (chilli, lime, palm sugar, lemongrass) lifted the salad and made the squid's salt and pepper coating all the more welcome. All in all, one of those can't-beat-'em light and simple meals and as Ness commented, no coriander - a welcome change from the cliché Asian salad.

Next up came the Seared Scallops with Carbonara salad, fried quail egg and truffle oil - I was immediately puzzled by the Carbonara ' salad''. It turned out to be cold spaghetti Carbonara twirled high in the centre of the plate with a fried quail egg placed on top. The scallops were set around the stack, then drizzled with (white French) truffle oil, sprinkled with (tobbiko black) caviar and topped with crispy pancetta.

Serving the pasta cold as a salad was unique and unexpected; I loved piercing the dainty quail egg and watching it's rich yolk ooze down through the salad. The scallops were perfectly textured (yay) and the bitter caviar and earthy truffle oil gave the creamy pasta pizzazz - not too much but just enough to get the juices going (like a good starter should).

Our final entree: Cured Venison topped with pickled cabbage and port and pineapple relish with seeded mustard dressing on the side. The salt-and-sugar-cured venison backstrap pieces were petite yet hearty. Cleverly, the crisp, tangy cabbage and sweet relish took the right amount of my attention away from the meat's robust texture and flavour. The creamy dressing added a lubricating layer that tied it beautifully together. My only 'grievance' - there wasn't enough of the relish, I loved it and wanted more!

As we finished the entrees, our host came out with an ice-cold bottle of 2005 Frankland Estate 'Isolation Ridge' Dry Riesling (WA; $46 bottle). Packed with sweet fruit flavours and a nice crisp bite at the end, I rather enjoyed it as I normally wouldn't order a Riesling. Ness and I sipped it and leaned back to watch the restaurant slowly fill, looking out onto the harbour and chatting furiously, energized by the views and unobtrusive restaurant buzz.

A glass or so later and out came the mains; prices range from $28-$40. From the Mussel Bar came Dijon and Horseradish Cream mussels with crispy pancetta. A hearty, atypical mussel dish with just enough of a horseradish bite yet it didn't overpower the seafood flavour. The mussels were huge and plump, as one would definitely expect here! Olive oil, a petite warm loaf of bread and the brisk Frankland Estate Riesling completed the dish. Other mussel choices include Thai Green Curry, Italian, Traditional Chilli and Moules Marinieres with white wine and fresh herbs. The Mussel Bar isn't just a name after all.

Finally, Glen presented the Sake Marinated Salmon Fillet with soused greens, soba noodle salad, wasabi aioli and teriyaki glaze. The sour-ish soused greens (pickled cucumber, bean shoots, bok choy) gave a crunch and tang to the juicy salmon and it's sultry, sweet Teriyaki glaze. The creamy aioli was a welcome collision of opposing flavours and textures. I loved the thin, cold soba noodles too but the wasabi aioli really stole the show - I'll be trying it at home real soon.

I was definitely satiated but I couldn't resist the Blue Cheese Mousse (?!), with red wine poached pears, rum and raisin ice cream and walnut crush. I spied the fluffy, creamy mousse and took a spoonful into my mouth - I stopped: a strong blue cheese flavour knocked me for six as I was expecting a sweet dessert! I must admit I was dubious yet - as with all great cheese plates - I tried it with the other sweet bits on the plate. The combination was extraordinary and, in this case, the proof is in the mousse: always try the combination of ingredients that the chef chooses to display on your plate. I found it fantastic that our conversation was totally focused on every mouthful and attribute of this dish for at least twenty minutes. Rather glad I tried it.

All in all, I loved The Mussel Bar and will be back. The food was quality and the dishes meticulously fashioned. She exudes a quiet dignity, creating a space for a salubrious meal. Her harbour vantage point will welcome with open arms any special occasion you could throw at her. And if you love the water but not boats, then this is the ideal place to get your sea legs! All aboard...

By Shenade Unicomb