The Vic

Enjoying Subi-time

Thanks to the growing profile of the AFL around the country, Subiaco is now one of the first Perth suburbs that Eastern-staters can name, second only to Fremantle and now well ahead of Cottesloe and Northbridge. Home to 2006 AFL premiers the West Coast Eagles, Subiaco Oval's reputation as a fearsome 60,000-capacity stadium that few visiting teams ever record victories at shouldn't deter the tourist from venturing into the surrounding streets - for Subiaco is a genteel town of fashion outlets, art galleries, museums, theatres, two markets as well as shops, cafes, restaurants and hotels such as the The Vic, barely a minute's walk from the footy action and yet so much more than just a sportsman's pub.

A grand Victorian terrace in an established inner-city location, the historical image of The Vic's exterior blends easily with Subiaco's leafy aura. First-time visitors may be expecting a quaint interior paying homage to the past through scruffy pub memorabilia, but hold onto your hats folks, nothing could be further from the truth. Inside The Vic is stunning and not just contemporary - she's futuristic. The vibe is upmarket - Perth boom-time prosperity in full flight, albeit relaxing after work with a drink and some quality casual dining. Being Western Australian, there's something suitably laid-back and open about the locals. This isn't a bling-bling scene - some may be in suits winding down on a weeknight, but they're the kind of yuppies you'd happily take home to meet mum.

When Subi Oval isn't roaring to life as the self-titled "House of Pain", The Vic is far more quietly building its reputation as a house of foodie pleasure. There's a proudly Modern Australian menu, but the international influences are writ large. As thoroughbred as the Macadamia Kangaroo Loin is, seared medium-rare on roasted vegetables with endive & finished with a balsamic glaze, it's all good mate next to Weisswurst sausages, bruschetta, a chicken quesadilla or a thai prawn salad. And as dinky-di as Grilled Barramundi lightly dusted in lemon myrtle is, it's a happy companion to ravioli, linguini, risotto, scallopini and the vegetarian-friendly Haloumi & Vegetable Stack. Nowadays such dishes can all be viewed as part of a broader Mod-Oz compendium, but The Vic cleverly adds to the experience by recommending beers to complement the dishes. Having the Lime & Chilli Squid Salad? Go the Redback 4.7%.

Adding to the progressive feel of the ingredients and dishes is head chef Shane McKay's willingness to cater for special diner requirements such as for gluten-free or diabetic-safe meals. Truly The Vic is the epitome of Subiaco - putting the sensitive into the sophisticated. They're equally responsive to the needs of the local business-lunch set, having created a midday menu which can be cooked and served with speed but without losing anything in the flavour and presentation which the kitchen staff and the upbeat waiting-folk pride themselves on.

For diners like myself whose only requirement is the best taste around, The Vic left me contented. The food servings are generous in keeping with expectations of pub dining - they still provide footy-crowd staples like fish & chips but most of the menu transcends the genre while offering some of the most affordable dining in the Western suburbs. If you need to be finished off by an indulgence of the sweetest kind, then their Rich Chocolate Fondant, Raspberry Creme Brulee and Baileys Chocolate Parfait will do the job. I prefer to leave a little room not for dessert but for extra refreshments of the alcoholic kind - considering you can get a bottle of red or white from just $24 upwards, the phrase "dine with a skipper" is not so much a warning as a recommendation.

The Vic welcomes all with elegant adaptability. Check out the finer details of the menu or info about The Vic's function rooms by visiting www.the-vic.com.au or call Paul on (08) 6380 8222. Or drop in anytime from 11am 'til late Monday-Saturday or from 12-noon 'til late on Sundays.

By Stewart Dawes